My first Ferragosto in Milan
Hi, this is Mina from Go! Go! Italia. For those of you who are new to our blog, I am a South Korean national and have lived and studied in Italy for many years.
When I first arrived in Milan one hot August afternoon, I was surprised by how quiet the city was. The sun was shining brightly, making the streets almost glow, but they were completely empty. Most shops were closed, and there were hardly any people around. Milan, a city usually full of life and energy, felt unusually calm and empty.
As I wandered through the deserted streets, I started to wonder where everyone was. The lively cafes were closed, and even the famous Duomo area was nearly empty. The only sounds were the occasional car. Finally, at one of the few open cafes, we spoke to a friendly barista. He explained that it was Ferragosto, the reason why people in the city seemed to have disappeared.
Discovering Ferragosto
Ferragosto is a major Italian holiday celebrated on August 15th. It marks the peak of summer and is a time when Italians take a break and go on vacation. The name Ferragosto comes from the Latin “Feriae Augusti,” meaning the festivals of Augustus. Emperor Augustus started this holiday in 18 BC to celebrate the harvest and give people a rest after the hard work of the agricultural season.
Today, Ferragosto is a day of relaxation and celebration, deeply rooted in Italian culture and traditions. Although its origins are ancient, it has evolved into a time for family and friends to come together and enjoy the height of summer.
What happens during Ferragosto?
The great exodus
One of the most striking things about Ferragosto is the mass exodus from cities like Milan, Rome, and Florence. Italians flock to the coast, mountains, and countryside to escape the summer heat. Popular destinations include the Amalfi Coast, Sicily, Sardinia, and the Italian Alps. This mass migration leaves urban areas eerily quiet, as everyone heads out for relaxation and fun.
Celebrations and traditions
Ferragosto is celebrated in various ways across Italy:
- Beach parties: Coastal areas come alive with beach parties, barbecues, and fireworks. Families and friends gather to enjoy the sun, sand, and sea, creating a festive atmosphere that lasts well into the night.
- Festivals and parades: Many towns and villages host local festivals, parades, and religious processions. These events often include music, dancing, and traditional foods, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the region.
- Picnics and feasts: Italians love their food, and Ferragosto is no exception. Elaborate picnics and feasts are prepared, featuring seasonal delicacies like fresh seafood, grilled meats, and an array of antipasti. Watermelon is a popular treat, symbolizing the peak of summer.
- Religious observances: For many, Ferragosto also has a religious significance as it coincides with the Catholic feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. Church services and processions are held, particularly in more devout regions of the country.
Why the city was empty
Understanding Ferragosto explained the emptiness of Milan during my first visit. The city’s residents had all escaped to more pleasant surroundings, leaving behind the sweltering heat and stifling urban environment. This annual retreat is a cherished tradition, offering Italians a chance to unwind and recharge before the start of the busy autumn season.
Conclusion
Ferragosto is a unique and vibrant celebration of love for family, food, and festivity. It’s a time when beaches and countryside fill with laughter and joy. My initial surprise at Milan’s deserted streets turned into a deep appreciation for this special holiday over the years in Italy. Wherever you are in Italy, Ferragosto is a wonderful time to experience the heart and soul of Italian culture. So, if you ever visit Italy in mid-August, embrace the tranquility of the cities and join in the lively celebrations wherever they may take you.
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